![rewiring lath and plaster walls rewiring lath and plaster walls](https://curtisbros.co.uk/uploads/system/gallery/55/371/rhodes_6.jpg)
Then when you are in the attic or crawl you look for the coat hanger wire poking though, it will tell you where to drill. Use a cordless drill and use the coat hanger like a bit and drill it all the way in and then take it out of the drill and leave it. Then at the floor or ceiling right next to the wall where you want to drill down to your device. Another trick to find the loc, is take a coat hanger and cut about a 12" chunk and cut it at a sharp angle to make a point. Leave the bit in the wall go back to the hole and reach in and find the bit (goes much faster and easier if you have someone working with you, tapping at the loc so you can find it, and letting you know if they see the bit). Find that location from the attic or the crawl and drill up or down though the plates and fire block. remove old device and box, reach in hole and try to clear as much as you can out of the way. Use one of those flex bits and get some extensions that tighten up on it with setscrews. If it was me, the ONLY holes I would cut in it would be where new boxes and devices are going. You have a attic and a crawl space, and time. On a wall that is not in the best of shape, chip the plaster out and use a hook made out of a coat hanger to help hold the lathe from flexing It can be done, if you follow what I said after the learning curve of a box or 2 you should not blow out any plaster if the wall is in good shape in the first place.
![rewiring lath and plaster walls rewiring lath and plaster walls](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7J8DFobqGvk/maxresdefault.jpg)
You can use a sawzall but need to be gentle and let the blade cut slowly, like make saw dust not wood chips. Make sure you let the saw do the cutting, no forcing it to grab and cut. Ideally your box is next to the stud so you can put the box in and screw thru the side of the box to secure it so its not dependent on the lathe and plaster for support. Then cut the side closest to the stud, then use a screw driver to twist and split the top and bottom lathe out, dont try to saw it out. When you cut it use a very sharp new keyhole saw, and cut the side of the box farthest away from the stud first. some guys will chisel out the plaster in the size and shape of the box first, very gently. There are a few tricks that work, I used to do them.įirst you want to add the boxes as close to a stud as possible to help hold the lathe. Anyone have experience with this, especially with plaster? Here's a link to what I'm talking about. I've recently seen this product that is like a rotary hole saw, surrounded by a plexiglass bowl, that you press against a wall/ceiling and it contains the mess. This is a situation where we'll have to be living in and around this as it is being done. I've seen many recommendations, from jig saws to angle grinders and the appropriate diamond blades for doing all this but the mess makes me shudder. The only thing that's made me back down from doing this in the past has been time (thanks COVID, kids, work) and my lack of experience & know-how dealing with the plaster where I'll need to both create minimal mess so the family can still be around and also to only need to fix smaller holes (I don't want to be taking down whole walls or even whole stud bays).
![rewiring lath and plaster walls rewiring lath and plaster walls](https://c8.alamy.com/comp/EWKT0F/english-victorian-period-house-interior-wall-lath-and-plaster-wall-EWKT0F.jpg)
I am in my comfort zone with all the 120/240VAC, networking, and LV installation. Unfortunately, although I have a basement/attic, I will absolutely need to access some wall areas on the main and second floors. My goals, what with all the fucking time I have at home currently, is replace all old wiring, add a few additional receptacles, and run some new low voltage and networking wires for data/smoke/doorbell/security.
![rewiring lath and plaster walls rewiring lath and plaster walls](https://www.cohesivehomes.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/How-To-Repair-Lath-And-Plaster-Walls-1-300x200.jpg)
Based on what I've seen from the basement & attic, there's an assortment of modern NM/Romex, some armored cables, and even some remnants of knob & tube. Most switches don't have neutral wires going to their boxes. About 50% of the outlets have no grounding/3-hole receptacles. The electrical is outdated, various vintages. So I feel confident I don't need to worry about that hazard at least. According to some tests I've done, it appears only the window & door trim have lead paint (at some unknown paint layer). My house was built in 1929, all walls & ceilings save for a small kitchen addition done before my ownership is plaster/lathe.